Sup boats everything you need to know about.
Like all boats, Sup boards are considered boats and are divided into two categories based on their hull or otherwise their belly or hull.
The first boards are those with a planinghull hull and the second ones with a displacementhull hull, conditions that if you are dealing with inflatable boats you will have heard of.
They named them so because the first ones at high speeds lift their bows and ride the water, ie they glide, while the second ones displace the water with their V shape at any speed they sail.
Displacement boats are large ships and pleasure boats while planing boats are jetski and small speedboats.
Planing type – Planinghull
These boards are very similar to surfboards, they are slower at low speeds, but when they plan at high speeds they raise the front part above the water and reduce their friction.
This also helps to jump the wave when sailing in the opposite direction (upwind) or in its direction (downwind). However, when the water is completely straight, e.g. flatwater lake there is the feeling of friction because the large surface of the bow “pushes” the water. Also because their bow is rounded these boards turn more easily.
Their sides, (relays), are low and thin and this makes them ideal for surfing, in addition the rider has a lower center of gravity and even from a displacement of width is more stable. They are the majority of the boards and usually come out up to 12 ?, 12’5? length.
Displacement type – Displacementhull
They are kayak type boards. With their sharp bow they penetrate smoothly into the water and displace it, minimizing friction at low speeds. In this wave, the boards do not lift their front part, they just penetrate the wave and therefore lag behind the planinghulls.
However, they are faster and usually narrower and are superior in flatwater than planing of similar length. Due to the shape they have, they can keep a straight course for a longer period of time without changing hands on the oars and this makes them ideal for touring, racing and covering longer distances.
There are of course the boards that combine the characteristics of both.
The boards on the market are accompanied by four characteristics
Length: The farther the board is, the greater the slip on each paddle, so it helps with speed, is more efficient in a race and more relaxed to cover long distances. in management and storage and are usually cheaper. So long boards over 11; used mainly for flatwater, cruising, touring and Sup racing and those shorter than 10.5; and below for Surfing and Windsurfing.
Width: Width translates to stability and helps you get started in StandUpPaddle. The 30 wide boards; – 36? are more fun because you can lift your child or your dog! The narrowest planks 23? – 29? they have less friction and allow the rider to make the paddle closer to the center of the board which means more paddles on the same side so more efficiency.
The thickness adjusts the center of gravity of the rider, the lower it is the more stable the board feels. Of course the thickness is not the same along the entire length of the board.
Volume: If you multiply the above they give you the volume, that is, the space occupied by the board. The larger the volume, the more the board floats out of the water, so less friction and easier paddling. The price here is directionality, bulky boards turn even harder, so over 200 liters only in touring and racing and not in Surfing.
Other features are:
Slope – Rocker
The steeper the slope of the board, the more it looks like a banana. The bow on the bow, noserocker, absorbs the small waves and is the one that will keep you on the board when a steep wave comes down and will not nail in the water. The steeper the bow and the more raised the nose, the more friendly it is to supsurf, upwind and downwind, but it has more surface resistance, so the smaller the slope the better the slip, so in flatwater the slope should be the minimum possible. The inclination of the stern again only plays a role in Surfing and the higher it is raised the easier it is to carving on the wave, that is, to turn your body as you take the wave to turn.
Nose: The “nose” of the boat, the first point that comes in contact with water in every movement of the board. Width is generally stability so the wider the bow the more stable it is on the wave and ideal for noseriding. The larger volume in the bow helps us to get the board out of the wave faster, in the upwind and in the downwind.
Stern – Tail:
The general rule here is that the wider the tail of the boat, the more stable it is on the wave, favors the shifts of the weight you make in the surf and the turns and forgives wrong movements. The V is an ideal shape in the tail when it comes exclusively to wave, but not downwind, where the wave comes from behind and the stern needs to be more stable.
Rails: Rails are the sides of the board and affect buoyancy and maneuverability. The thicker rails help with planing and handling. The thin round rails help with carving, ie it is easier to transfer your weight to one side of the board to turn, which is why the wave boards have the smallest volume on their sides.
Karina – Fin: At the bottom of the board and towards the bow is the reason that the board sails in a straight direction, the keel.
Which board do I need?
In fact, the answer to this difficult question is more complex and comes from exactly how you want to use your equipment.
Each new board you use each time helps you to understand more deeply what each shape is used for, what it excels at and what different it offers.
The boards are divided into some basic categories:
Touring – Flat Water
Surf – Wave
those that combine some of the above
SUP Surfing is mainly the reason for the birth of sports as we know it today. As surfers saw Supers getting more and more waves more and more easily, they started using Stand Up Paddle boards more and more often.
Now many “old” surfers have become exclusively Supers and this category is the largest in the sport.
You can have fun for endless hours just by playing with the waves. The bigger the better! Of course on the wave it takes a lot of practice for someone without previous experience. Within just a few days of practice with a 30 board; anyone will be able to play on a small wave. We prefer wider boards for heavier and taller riders and narrower ones for more advanced riders. The length plays from 9; up to 12; for beginners and from 7; to 9; for prosurfers!
The longer boards are of course also more stable in length. A board 32; width can satisfy even the most doubtful of the rider’s balance.
Longer boards help speed and “plan” but are harder to turn to catch the wave at the right time. The shorter boards are slower but they turn faster and respond quickly to the slightest displacement of our weight. They catch the wave sharper and easier where the longest ones can be helped by their speed to catch the speed of the wave.
A 10? X34? is the best choice for a good start for a Supsurfer. Do not be fooled that because such a board is suitable for beginners it does not perform well on the “feet” of an advanced ..
The basic rule here is that the right board is the shortest board we can handle. The more experience we gain in the wave and in our oars, the shorter board we can use.
If now surfing is not the only part of the SUP for us but we want a board that apart from the wave will have a very good behavior and in the flat it will have a length of 9’5? up to 10’5? for short distances and up to 11’2? for larger.
If we have good balance and surf experience, then a board of smaller width 27; – 28.5? V-shaped tail for a more immediate response is ideal!
To catch the wave I need fast, short paddles, acceleration rendered by 8.5 wider paddles; up to 9.5? and larger area to produce more work in less time.
For completely flat the cruising boards 12’6? that most large companies have, but even longer 14; They are very relaxing and with effortless and gentle movements you can make several miles and even explore entire islands. But touring can also be done in the open with rough seas. The difference lies in the shape of the board I will choose and not in the size. The larger the angle with the water the bow makes, the more effective the plank is in the wave, also the shape of the rhombus helps to penetrate the wave.
The all-around boards are designed to perform well in all conditions. They are “multi-tools” for those who want to do everything and the ideal boards for beginners who want to try all aspects of StandUp with a single board! Is there a huge variety of all the companies that pay close attention to this area with sizes from 9’8? until 12’6? with great stability which translates to a width of 30; and up. They have a good slip on the flat but will help you in your first games on the waves. They are the boards for all of you who are not satisfied with a single type of SUP and want to have fun in every possible way!
If these boards were cars then they would certainly not be on the road but on slopes. Designed for the sole purpose of speed, they are narrow with lower stability exclusively for racing and are not suitable for beginners. Most in the category are 12’6; and 14; with some even reaching 17 ?, 18? legs. The width starts from 28.5; and reaches up to 23; for the bravest! Some can be up to 30; but are not preferred by experienced riders. Anyone who wants to be one of the fastest Supers has to ride one of the fastest boards, so this is a category that is constantly improving mechanically. The big bet here is the shape of the hull and the entrance (bow) which is usually displacement type displacement.
In a race the paddle must be as light as possible (carbon fiber, kevlar) and the size and hardness depend on the weight and preferences of the rider. The harder it is and the bigger and wider its blade, the more work each paddle produces, BUT it takes more effort on your part and is more tedious in long trials which is why most Supers choose 8-width paddles; with 8.5? inches.
Windsurfing is very easy to learn if you have the right equipment.
Even if you are not interested in using SUP as windsurfing during a board search, we would advise the board you choose to accompany you on your next excursions to have the ability to place a sail.
Even if you have never tried or are not excited about windsurfing, (we fully understand and respect it) the possibilities you have wearing a cloth on the convertible board are endless. Speed, freeride, even longer distances, wave, easier turning longboard but also resale value are just some of the positives of a board with mastbase socket.
In the lake or in the river everything plays! A long board of course outperforms in speed but also a 9; it is equally effective and is easier to carry on difficult paths to its shores.